The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka

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Polonnaruwa was the 2nd kingdom in ancient Sri Lanka. Today it is one of the 6 historic UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the country. Polonnaruwa is a part of Sri Lana’s Cultural Triangle and is located relatively close to perhaps Sri Lanka’s greatest historic attraction, Sigiriya. This post covers everything you need to know about visiting Polonnaruwa.

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A Brief History of Polonnaruwa

Anuradhapura was the first ancient kingdom of Sri Lanka and was so for 1500 years. In the year 993, invaders from southern India’s Chola dynasty took over Anuradhapura and moved the capital to Polonnaruwa. Here, they ruled for almost 70 years until they were usted by a Sri Lankan king. One way Polonnaruwa differs from Anuradhapura is in the way Hinduism influenced art and architecture. For example, the cow is taken out of the moonstones which is a stone carved carpet that’s present at the entry to Buddhist temple and religious buildings. Since the cow is sacred in the Hindu religion, it was taken out to prevent the image from being trampled upon.

King’s Parakramabahu I and Nissankamalla were the two main contributors to the expansion of Polonnaruwa as the new capital of then Sri Lanka. Many of the ruins and sites you will see in Polonnaruwa were built under their patronage.

Polonnaruwa remained the capital of the Sinhala kings for another 200 years until it was once again invaded by Cholas from southern India. At this point the capital was moved further south to a place called Dambadeniya.

What is the Best Time to Visit Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa is located in the dry zone in Sri Lanka and therefore doesn’t get a lot of rain. However, the wettest month is November but it’s still a low volume of rain.

Opening Times and Costs

Polonnaruwa is open from 7 AM to 5:30 PM. The cost is around USD $35-25 for foreign visitors. There is a discount for visitors from SAARC countries.

Do You Need to Buy Tickets in Advance for Polonnaruwa?

No, you do not need to buy tickets in advance. You can buy your tickets at the entrance.

Is Visiting Polonnaruwa Worth it?

The short answer is absolutely! Here is why. Polonnaruwa is one of the 6 historic UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Sri Lanka. Unlike Anuradhapura, which is Sri Lanka’s first ancient capital, Polonnaruwa is in a much more concentrated area and the ruins are a lot more preserved too. In addition, the ruins and sites in Polonnaruwa are both religious and secular in nature, thereby painting a holistic picture of life in the ancient kingdom.

What to See in Polonnaruwa?

The Royal Palace

The royal Palace of King Parakramabahu. Measuring 31 meters by 13 meters, it is said that the palace rose up 7 floors but you can only see the walls up to 3 floors today.

Audience Hall

Across from the Royal Palace is an audience hall with beautiful elephant carvings. The entry way is very ornate as well with beautiful stone carvings.

Royal Bath

On the side of the audience hall is the royal bath and pool house used by the king.

The Sacred Quadrangle

This area has the most concentrated number of sites and ruins in Polonnaruwa. My favorite is the Watadageya. This circular building housed the tooth relic of the Buddha which was brought down from India centuries prior. The relic has been preserved and protected throughout Sri Lanka’s long history and can be visited today at the temple of the Tooth Relic in Kandy.

Even if you don’t visit any of the other sites, the Sacred Quadrangle is a must when visiting Polonnaruwa!

Shiva Devale #2

This Hindu temple is said to be one of the oldest in Polonnaruwa, dating from the time the Chola invaders first established the city.

Rankoth Vehera

The largest stupa in Polonnaruwa, this impressive temple was built by king Nissankamalla. It is believed this stupa had a height of 200 feet, although it’s shorter today due to various renovation work that was done on it. Rankoth Vehera is the 4th largest stupa in Sri Lanka.

Lankathilaka Image House

This massive image house was built during the reign of King Parakramabahu I (1153-1186). The building, including the giant Buddha statue inside is made entirely of brick. A deviation from the otherwise predominantly stone structures we had seen so far in Polonnaruwa. The statue is said to have been 41 feet in height. Walk around the entire building as it has a lot of beautiful carvings outside as well.

Kiri Vehera

Standing at 80 feet, this white temple is said to have been built by a queen of King Parakramabahu I. It is the 2nd largest stupa (temple) in Polonnaruwa after Rankoth Vehera. Kiri Vehera is next to Lankathilaka Image House and can be visited together.

Gal Vehera

If you look up pictures of Polonnaruwa, you are sure to see 3 statues of the Buddha in 3 different postures. Standing, reclining and seated. These statues are almost 900 years old and are carved into the rock. There is a 4th and slightly smaller image inside a cave. If you look to the right of it closer to the meshing, you will see a panel of frescoes. It is said that these images were once inlaid in gold. There is also a theory that the standing image may not be of the Buddha but of one of his disciples.

Lotus Pond

Shaped like a lotus flower, this stone carved pond is very unique compared to the other rectangular shaped ponds and bathing pools.

Thivanka Image House

Another one of my favorite ruins because this one has frescoes inside. Also built by king Parakramabahu I, it’s called Thivanka as the Buddha statue inside is curved in 3 places (Thivanka in sinhala). The frescoes tell the story of the prior births of the Buddha. Anther interesting thing to note is that the lion carvings outside more or less have different faces or body postures. It’s hard to find 2 exactly alike!

Logistics for Visiting Polonnaruwa?

This next section will walk you through all the logistics of visiting Polonnaruwa.

How to Get to Polonnaruwa?

There are several ways that you can get to Polonnaruwa as listed below. My recommendation is to arrive the night or evening prior so that you can start your day early the next day.

By Car

Regardless from where in the country you are visiting Polonnaruwa from, traveling by car is the most convenient and fastest way to get to Polonnaruwa. You can either hire a taxi for the day or book a private transfer.

We used Prime Taxi and had a good experience overall.

If you are coming from Colombo, it may take up to 4.5 hours.

By Tuk-Tuk

You could potentially hire a tuk-tuk to bring you to Polonnaruwa as well. If you are doing this, you may have to arrange for it the day prior with a tuk-tuk driver. Don’t depend on finding a tuk-tuk via an app or from the street the day of. Alternatively, you can also hire a tuk-tuk and drive it yourself. This mode is fast becoming popular with tourists, however, unless you are used to driving in chaos, I personally would not do it.

By Bus

If you are visiting Polonnaruwa from Colombo, you will have to take bus 48 to Polonnaruwa. The journey will take 6-7 hours depending on the traffic and all the stops. Note that this will be the cheapest option but I don’t think it’s worth it

By Train

Coming by train is another slow option. It will take around 5-6 hours and there is only 1 train that runs daily from Colombo to Habarana which is located 1 hour away . You will still have to find your way to Polonnaruwa from Habarana. I don’t recommend this option.

How to Get Around Polonnaruwa?

Polonnaruwa is relatively compact. All the ruins I have listed here are within 6 KM one way. However, I don’t recommend walking from one site to another. Here are other ways you can get around Polonnaruwa.

Bike

You can hire bicycles and see the ruins while biking from one site to another. You can rent bicycles at the entrance to the Polonnaruwa Ancient City.

Tuk-Tuk

Hiring a tuk-tuk is also a god way to see the ruins and sites. You may have to negotiate pretty heavily though as tuk-tuk drivers will probably start quoting a high price. Ask your accommodation provider for the running rate for a ballpark figure. Honestly, if the driver is willing to wait at each site and take you through all the ruins and sites I listed, it may be worth your time and money to hire a tuk.

Private Vehicle with Driver

This is what I did and it was perfect! Our driver waited for us at each site. Did all the talking and we just rode along like the passenger princesses that we are! Best part was knowing there was an air conditioned vehicle waiting for us once we were done at each site.

Organized Tour

If you don’t have a private driver and car, my recommendation is to do an organized tour. I say this because 1. they will arrange all the logistics 2. provide all the transport and 3. give you a guided tour. I think this option probably has the most bang for your buck.

Game Plan for Visiting Polonnaruwa

To visit Polonnaruwa, you need to first buy your tickets from the Archaeological Museum. Start at the Royal Palace of King Parakramabahu and then make your way north all the way up to Thivanka Image House, stopping at the sites I have listed under “What to See in Polonnaruwa”

How Many Hours for a Visit to Polonnaruwa

I recommend keeping at least 3 hours for your visit to Polonnaruwa. 4 would be ideal because the heat can honestly wear you out. There are honestly things to see in Polonnaruwa that can easily fill up an entire day but in the interest of time, I think you should just hit the highlights that I have mentioned above.

Tips for Visiting Polonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa is in the dry zone in Sri Lanka and is always hot. Visit early in the morning to avoid the heat

• Bring a big hat, sunscreen and plenty of water.
• You will have to cover your shoulders and knees (regardless of your gender) if they are exposed so bring a shawl and wrap.
• You will also have to remove your shoes in certain places. Wear socks so that your feet don’t burn on the hot ground (trust me! it’s scorching hot!)
• My biggest tip for Polonnaruwa is to hire a guide. You can hire one at the entrance to the sites or you can join an organized tour. There is so much history to uncover that you would not be doing Polonnaruwa any justice by exploring it on your own.
• Don’t take any selfies or pictures with your back to Buddha statues. This is a definite NO in Sri Lanka. Side angles or pictures of you turning your back to the camera (so in other words, facing the statue) is fine.

See HERE for all my important tips and must-knows about visiting Sri Lanka! Why should you believe me? Well! I am a Sri Lankan 🙂

Where to Eat in Polonnaruwa

There are a lot of Sri Lankan restaurants in Polonnaruwa that are rated quite highly but I recommend Priyamali Gedara. They have something like 32 Sri Lankan dishes and this doesn’t include the Sri Lankan sweetmeats for dessert. It’s run by a lovely couple and is located facing a paddy field.

Wondering what to eat in Sri Lanka? Check out my detailed guide HERE!

If you are looking for more western food, then you may have to go to a hotel in Polonnaruwa like EKHO Lake House or Deer Park and ask for their a la carte menu. Hungry Muppets Restaurant and cafe also has some western dishes.

Where to Stay in Polonnaruwa

There are lots of options to stay in Polonnaruwa from hotels to guest houses. I use booking.com to filter for the amenities and facilities that I look for in a place I stay.

You could also stay in Habarana instead of Polonnaruwa. It’s about under an hour away. Habarana is where we stayed and we stayed in a place called Habarana Lodge and loved it! Alternatively, you could also stay in Sigiriya which is about 80 minutes away.

Things to Do Near Polonnaruwa

There are lots of things you can do near Polonnaruwa. If you go to Polonnaruwa early morning, then you can easily couple it with another attraction nearby.

Here are a list of things you can do:

Elephant Safari

Afternoon elephant safari in Minneriya, Kaudulla or Habarana Echo Park. These parks are between 30 minutes to 1 hour away from Polonnaruwa.

Sigiriya

Sigiriya is perhaps the most famous UNESCO World Heritage Site in Sri Lanka and is about 80 minutes away from Polonnaruwa by car. You could easily visit Sigiriya after your time in Polonnaruwa. Sigiriya is open until 6:30 PM, however, the last ticket will be issues at 5 PM.

See HERE for a detailed guide on how to visit Sigiriya!

Pidurangala Rock Hike

If you love to hike, then you could also hike the Pidurangala Rock after your time in Sigiriya. From Pidurangala you will see panoramic views of the Sigiriya rock and the surrounding area.

See HERE for a detailed guide on how to hike Pidurangala Rock!

How to Spend One Day in Polonnaruwa

This is how we spent one day in Polonnaruwa.

One day is more than enough time if you are planning on visiting Polonnaruwa! In fact, 3-4 hours is ideal. Start your day in the morning and visit the ruins and sites. Then, have lunch at Priyamali Gedara. Once you are done with lunch, visit a nature park like Minneriya, Kaudulla or Habarana Eco Park for an elephant safari. One callout is that you will have to book your elephant safari ahead of time. You will probably have to be at one of these parks around 2 PM so make sure you start your day early to time it well. You should be done with the safari around 5-6 PM and can end your day sipping a much earned beer or cocktail at your hotel!

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